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How To Use A Sex Doll: A Beginner's Guide To Getting It Right
Your first doll is either in the house already or on the way. Whichever it is, there's a brief spell of slight panic when you unbox a 35 kg silicone human, end up standing in the middle of the living space, and think: now what? The answer to that question is what follows here. You will not find filler or assumptions that you already know here, just day-to-day recommendations on what you will truly need in your first week and how to dodge costly missteps in your first month. A second read after she arrives will make much more sense than the first, so go through it once beforehand and once after, as you will catch things you skipped over the first time.
You will wish to do a few things before you so much as open the package, as moving her around becomes significantly harder once she's out of it. Settle exactly where she's going to live, and "somewhere in the bedroom" doesn't count, so pick an actual spot like a wardrobe, a corner, or a carry case. Since dolls are weighty and difficult to manage, making up storage at 11 p.m. with an undressed doll in your arms is a thing you genuinely would like to dodge. Obvious the space she'll rest on, be it a bed, floor, or storage box, and be sure it is clean and free of anything that could transfer dye, since dark-toned blankets, budget fabrics, and anything that might lose colour are a risk. With carpet, lay something smooth underneath her. With a low bed, inspect it will not sink under her load in time.
Get everything you need ready before she arrives:
1. Cornstarch or baby powder (for TPE dolls)
2. A blow-dryer (for freeing up joints)
3. A clean, pale-coloured cloth (for the cloth test)
4. A wide-toothed wig comb (not a regular hairbrush)
5. Drying sticks (for the openings)
6. Mineral oil made for TPE (if relevant)
7. A soft make-up brush (for powdering)
None of this is costly, but all of it matters. The whole kit will come to maybe twenty pounds and it is the distinction between a doll that stays in great condition and one that does not. Do not tear into the package: open it with attention, and if it is damaged, image it before you open it, since that is your sole protection for a warranty case. A quick inspection comes next: examine for rips in the armpits and groin, be sure all fingers are unbroken, and verify the head sculpt matches what you bought. Take images of any issue straight away and get in touch with the supplier before you do anything else, as a claim gets much harder once the doll has been used or repositioned.
After that comes the aspect that takes nearly every first-time buyer off guard: she will feel inflexible. Tight joints are entirely standard straight from the factory and do not mean something is broken. The joints need limbering up before you can pose her, and the technique is straightforward. Take a blow-dryer on a low setting, not hot, to soften the TPE at every joint, next slowly move each joint through its whole range of motion, working through the neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. Never force anything, and if a joint will not move, warm it more. Spend an entire hour on this. That seems like significantly, but it is the distinction among a doll you will genuinely pose and a doll that ends up frozen in one pose as you gave up.
She's heavier than she looks, and this catches everyone. A 35 kg doll does not seem like much up to the point you lift her from a low position and the pressure is concentrated in the wrong places, so use appropriate lifting technique, squatting down and lifting with your legs as opposed to your back. When you can, hug her, taking hold under the armpits and keeping her close to your body, as the closer she is to your centre of mass, the less load you'll feel. Expect her to be warmer than you'd think, as TPE and silicone both hold heat pretty well, and the first time you feel her sensibly she'll feel less plastic than you'd probably expected. The chief reason people talk about their dolls feeling alive isn't movement or AI, it is that the cloth genuinely reacts to contact in a manner that takes you by surprise.
Regular powdering is a must, as TPE gets clammy in time, especially in summer heat or after cleansing, and a light layer of cornstarch or baby powder applied with a soft cosmetic brush holds the exterior smooth and free of dust, so do it at the end of every cleansing session. Occasional oiling is also needed, as TPE sheds oil with time, and a light coat of mineral oil specifically formulated for TPE dolls every three months or so holds the cloth soft and prevents cracks, although using too much oil makes the exterior slippery and collects attract dust faster than dried-out skin does, so go easy.
Cleaning is a regime as opposed to a one-off. After use:
1. Remove any inserts and wash them separately
2. Clean the orifice areas using warm water and gentle cleanser
3. Dry everything totally with drying stands (between 15 and 20 minutes)
4. Powder the exterior with cornstarch or baby powder
5. Keep her the right way
Do not treat this as optional, since if you skip it you will get mould forming inside her in as little as a few weeks. The complete process takes around 45 minutes, which is longer than most owners anticipate, and it is the primary reason seasoned owners switch to swappable inserts, which cut that time just about in half.
Novice owners make their biggest blunder here, as they do not think about storage until it is an issue. Most veteran owners hang their dolls, using a heavy-duty hanging hook rated for at least 60kg with a dedicated loop, which holds her in a single position without putting load on the joints. Storing her lying down works too, but be careful: flat surfaces are fine and bumpy ones aren't, and leaving her on her back for long periods can flatten the buttocks or breasts, so change the position now and then. Keep her out of bright sunlight at all times, as UV damages both TPE and silicone and discolours wigs and tinted details fast, which makes a cabinet or a covered storage container ideal.
The internet has a lot of opinions about owning a doll, most of which are mistaken or exaggerated. You shouldn't feel you have to be "careful" in the sense of treating her like porcelain, as yes, she's bulky and she has joints that need maintenance, but she's also designed to be used and she's not made of glass. Embarrassment isn't needed, as huge numbers of people own sex dolls, the sector has grown tremendously in the past decade, and the taboo has diminished fast, which makes owning one a personal decision and not a flaw in character.
You do not have to treat her like a person either. Building complex characters and personalities for their dolls is element of the appeal for many owners, which is great, but you do not have to, and a doll for bodily pleasure and companionship without the roleplay is a totally valid way to use one. Get the real-world side right and the rest is individual taste, as nobody else has a say on how you use something you've paid for.
Every owner develops their own routine, and mine for whatever it is worth is easy. Free up the joints before each session, not a solid hour from the first time but just five minutes or so to check that nothing is stiff, and powder after each clean without exception. Run the fabric try on any new clothing even if you've used the same brand before, keep a second wig to hand as synthetic fibre takes longer to dry than you'd anticipate and you do not wish to be waiting, and keep her carefully every time. Nothing here is fiddly, it is simply the regime that maintains your doll in good condition for a long time in place of months.
The opening month teaches you the majority of what you should know, and early errors tend to be minor ones if you're careful. Issues that show up later are the costly ones, and they nearly always originate in something skipped in the opening weeks. A joint limbered up too aggressively, a cloth tested on the doll as opposed to a cloth, a storage setup that looked okay until the pressure bedded into it. Take it slowly at the start and the rest takes attention of itself.
There's also the question of what to do when something does eventually go wrong, seeing as it will. It could be a tear in the armpit, a loose joint, or a mark that will not come out. Your instinct will be to panic and assume the doll is wrecked, but nearly everything short of a broken frame is fixable if you notice it early. Patch kits for TPE cost hardly anything and deal with compact splits. You can tighten or replace loose joints. Blemishes are the one thing that does not come out, and that's why the dye test makes such a difference. Find out which difficulties are fixable and stop worrying about the ones that aren't.
Serious purchases deserve respect, and a doll is one, but "serious" does not mean "difficult." You will get years out of her if you limber up the joints, powder her on a regular basis, and put away her correctly, but if you skip those things you will be replacing her much sooner than you expected. After a tough first week, it becomes routine. More info at this A Brutally Honest Overview of Sex Dolls- What Actually Matters 0834d20 which is worth considering with A Candid Breakdown of Sex Dolls Today- What Actually Matters and A Quick Overview of Modern Sex Dolls- The Honest Breakdown. Also check out click here for more not to mention article and wikipedia reference for more.
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